The BS-to-English Translator: Everything from Lab Dips to Lead Times.

If the technical side of fashion feels like a foreign language, here is your cheat sheet. I’ll keep adding more as I think of them.

Appearance After Washing: A technical test to check for excessive puckering, pilling, trim detachment, or print chipping after laundering.

AQL (Acceptable Quality Level): A standard for QCing production to determine if a batch meets requirements.

Bagged Out: A technique where the lining and the outer fabric are sewn right sides together and then turned inside out through a small gap. This hides all raw edges inside the garment.

Bar Tack: A series of tight zigzag stitches used to reinforce high-stress areas like pocket corners or belt loops.

Bias: The 45-degree diagonal direction of a woven fabric. Cutting on the bias allows stable woven fabrics to stretch and drape fluidly over the body's curves.

Bill of Materials (BOM): A comprehensive list of every raw material needed; from main fabric to labels and thread.

Binding: A finishing technique where a separate strip of fabric is folded over the raw edge of a seam (like a neckline or armhole) to encase it.

Blocks: Standard base styles for your brand; plain unstyled garments or best sellers repeated every season.

Care Label: A permanent label that must legally include various information depending on the country or region it is being sold in.

Chainstitch: A stitch formed by one or more needles and a series of interlocking loops. It is flexible and elastic, making it ideal for seams that need to stretch, such as denim waistbands.

CMT (Cut, Make, Trim): A manufacturing service where the factory cuts the fabric, sews the garment, and trims the threads.

Coverseam: A professional finish used primarily on knits and jerseys. It creates two or three parallel rows of topstitching on the front while covering the raw edge with a web of thread on the back.

Cuff: The finished lower edge of a sleeve or trouser leg, often reinforced with Interfacing or ribbing to provide structure and a closer fit around the wrist or ankle

Darts: Folds sewn into fabric to provide shape, usually around the bust or waist.

Dimensional Stability: The ability of a fabric to retain its original shape and size after washing or dry cleaning.

Drape: The way a fabric hangs or falls on the body under its own weight.

Ease: The difference between body and garment measurements for movement or styling.

Fibre Content: The specific blend of materials in a garment.

Fit Model: A model who is experienced in providing a Garment Tech with accurate feedback on how a garment feels, moves, and fits. This is a technical role, not a traditional fashion model for photography.

Fit / Fit Session: A meeting where a prototype is tried on a fit model to evaluate the drape, comfort, and silhouette before production.

French Seam: A high-end finish where the raw edges of a seam are encased within a second seam. It looks like a neat fold on the inside, with no visible raw edges or overlocking.

Front/Back Neck Drop: The vertical distance from the HSP/SNP to the centre front/back neckline; defines how deep the neck sits.

Fully Fashioned: A method of knitting where the individual panels are knitted into their exact shape rather than being cut from a flat sheet of fabric.

Grading: The technical process of scaling patterns up or down for different sizes.

Grading Rules: The specific formula (increments) used to increase or decrease dimensions between sizes (e.g., adding 2cm to the waist per size).

Grainline: The direction of the yarns in a fabric; vital for pattern placement to prevent the garment from twisting.

Hand Feel: The tactile quality of a fabric how it feels to the touch.

Hem: The finished lower edge of a garment, created by folding over the raw edge and stitching it down to prevent fraying and provide weight to the bottom of the piece.

HSP (High Shoulder Point): The point where the shoulder meets the neck; the primary reference for vertical measurements. Also known as SNP (Side Neck Point).

Interfacing / Fusing: An extra layer of fabric (either sewn-in or heat-bonded/fused) applied to the wrong side of garments in areas like collars, cuffs, and plackets to provide support, crispness, and shape retention.

Jersey: A single-knit fabric known for its stretch and softness. It is characterized by a flat "V" stitch on the face and a loopy texture on the back.

Lab Dip: A dyed fabric swatch (often based on Pantone) sent for approval to ensure colour accuracy.

Lead Time: The total duration from placing an order to receiving the finished goods.

Ligne: A traditional unit of measurement (1/40th of an inch) used specifically to measure the diameter of buttons.

Lockstitch: The most common mechanical stitch, created by a needle thread and a bobbin thread interlocking. It is very secure but has no stretch.

Marker: A layout of all pattern pieces to maximise fabric usage during cutting.

MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity): The lowest number of units a supplier is willing to produce per order.

Overlock: A stitch that sews over the edge of one or two pieces of fabric for edging, hemming, or seaming. It trims the excess fabric as it sews (sometimes called a "serger")

Pattern: The individual panels of a garment used as a template for cutting fabric.

Pattern Cutter: The expert responsible for drafting the physical or digital patterns.

Pilling: The formation of small fibre balls on the fabric surface due to friction.

Placket: An opening in a garment (at the neck, cuff, or waist) that allows it to be put on easily, often reinforced with interfacing and finished with buttons, snaps, or a zip.

POM (Point of Measurement): Specific spots on a garment used to verify if the factory followed the spec sheet.

PP Sample (Pre Production Sample): The final sample sent to approve before production. This should be made in bulk fabric with correct trims and labels attached, the factory will follow this sample once approved to production.

Production: The manufacturing stage.

Rise: The distance from the middle of the crotch seam to the top of the waistband (available as Front Rise and Back Rise).

Sample / Prototype: A physical version of a design (like a Fit Sample or Size Set) used for testing and approval.

Seal / Sealing: The final approval of a sample, meaning it is officially "sealed" for bulk production.

Shoulder Forward: A pattern adjustment where the shoulder seam is moved slightly toward the front of the body rather than sitting directly on top of the shoulder. This is often done to improve the hang of the garment or for aesthetic reasons.

Size Set: A full range of samples across all sizes used to check grading accuracy.

Size Spec (Size Specification): A detailed chart listing every POM and the required measurements for every size in the range.

Sleeve Head: The curved top part of the sleeve pattern piece that is sewn into the armhole. A well-drafted sleeve head is crucial for a smooth fit.

SPI (Stitches Per Inch): A measurement of stitch density; higher SPI generally indicates a higher quality, more durable seam.

Spirality: A technical defect in jersey fabrics where the vertical columns of stitches twist or "spiral" around the body

Stretch and Recovery: A measure of how much a fabric can be pulled (stretch) and how effectively it returns to its original shape (recovery).

Strike-off: A trial sample of a print or embroidery to check color and scale.

Tech Pack: The instructional manual for a factory containing sketches, specs, and the BOM.

Toile: A prototype made in cheap fabric (like calico) to test fit before using the final material.

Tolerance: The allowed variation from spec measurements, often expressed as a plus or minus value (e.g., +/- 1cm).

Twin Needle: A single needle bar that holds two needles, creating two parallel rows of stitching on top.

Wadding: A soft, thick layer of fibrous material used as a filler between the outer fabric and the lining. It provides insulation (warmth) and volume to quilted jackets and outerwear.

Warp / Weft: In woven fabrics, Warp yarns run vertically (parallel to the selvedge), and Weft yarns run horizontally (across the width).

Wash: The process of laundering a garment to achieve a specific look, feel, or shrinkage. In production, this can range from a simple home wash test to check for stability, to industrial Garment Washes (like stone washing or enzyme washing) used to soften fabric or create distressed effects.

X-Front / X-Back: "Across Front" and "Across Back" measurements taken between the armholes to ensure proper fit across the chest and shoulder blades.

Yarn Dyed: Fabric where the yarns are dyed before they are woven or knitted.

Yield (Consumption): The exact amount of fabric required to produce one unit.

Yoke: A shaped pattern piece that fits around the neck and shoulders or the top of trousers/skirts. It provides support for the rest of the garment.

Zip Guard: A protective flap of fabric sewn behind or over a zipper to prevent the metal or plastic teeth from catching on the skin or undergarments.