PORTFOLIO

I've helped brands fix styles that were causing fit-related returns, overhauled blocks and grading, and taken founders from "I have a design but I have absolutely no idea wtf I am doing" to a product that's technically sound and ready to be made.

Success stories

Sampling

A team was losing time and money to samples being requested simply because that was how the process had always worked. I reviewed the development and approval process with suppliers and in-country teams, challenging which stages genuinely required a physical sample and where decisions could be made more efficiently. Sampling and team workload fell by 30% in one season.

Development

A first-time founder had a strong product idea but no technical background or clear route into production. I guided her through fabric selection, construction and the decisions needed to make the product manufacturable, then created the tech pack, size specifications and grading. She finished with a technically sound product and the confidence to approach manufacturers.

Blocks

A brand came to me with a bestselling jean that measured to spec but looked wrong and was being returned in the larger sizes. I traced the problem beyond that one style: every jean had been developed from scratch, with inconsistent fits and grading. I created a system of blocks, grade rules and tolerances to give the range a reliable foundation for future development.

Performance

Customer complaints showed that a black denim product was fading too quickly. I worked directly with the denim mill to investigate the issue and improve its durability, using real customer feedback to drive technical changes rather than treating it as an isolated complaint. The project created a stronger foundation for future black-denim development.

Tech packs

Denim tech pack construction pages showing seams, stitch types, trims and finishes for straight leg jeans, barrel leg jeans and a shirt dress Tap the image to see it full size
Your factory can't see the garment in your head, so the tech pack has to do the talking. These are construction pages from three tech packs, showing seams, stitch types, trims and finishes. A full tech pack also includes inspiration, technical flats, a size spec with grading, points of measure, a bill of materials, and pages for fit comments as the style develops. I build them in Excel, so they stay a living document from first sample through to production.

Points of measure

Points of measure spec sheet for a straight leg jean, with 26 numbered measurements and tolerances matched to technical flats Tap the image to see it full size
Points of measure for the straight leg jean. Every measurement is numbered on the flats and matched to the spec, with a tolerance on each, so the brand, the factory and I are all measuring the same way.

Fit comments: relaxed straight-leg jean

Jeans fit comments with annotated photos of the front and back rise, tight low hip and thigh, fabric tearing at the back pocket, and the updated spec Tap the image to see it full size
First fit review of a relaxed straight-leg jean. The sample was tight through the waist, hip and thigh, with a short rise. I graded up one size to the knee and re-shaped the front and back rise. I also flagged fabric failure and loose stitching at the back pocket, requesting post-wash test reports. Proposed measurement changes are shown on the spec.

Grading: sizes 26 to 38

Jeans grading table for sizes 26 to 38 with base size 30 highlighted and tolerances for each point of measure Tap the image to see it full size
Proposed grading for sizes 26 to 38, with a bigger grade above size 36 so the larger sizes keep the relaxed fit rather than just getting wider. Grading is never confirmed until the sample has been sealed for production. More on grading

Blocks: Mom jean, sizes 8 to 26

Mom jean block spec graded from size 8 to 26 with base size 10 highlighted, next to a photo of the fitted jean Tap the image to see it full size
I worked with a brand to develop blocks, this was their Mom jean. Part of this project was proposing grading from size 8 to 26. A solid, tested block gives every new style the same starting point, so the fit stays consistent across the range and the brand isn't starting from scratch each season. On an extended size range, I always recommend a second fit in a larger size, such as an 18, to check the grade holds. Sometimes the plus sizes need a completely separate fit process. More on blocks

Beyond denim

Jeans are my specialist subject, but my experience spans most of womenswear too.

Fit comments: shorts and matching trousers

Second fit comments for shorts and matching trousers with fit photos showing excess fullness at the front of the trouser Tap the image to see it full size
Second fit of a revamped best-selling short, with matching trousers added. The shorts were much closer, so I used their waist, hip and rise as the base for the trousers. The trouser sample was out of tolerance through the hip, which pushed extra fabric into the front. The comments cover the pattern changes, a new stretched waist measurement and an updated spec.

Made-to-measure jumpsuit toile

Made-to-measure jumpsuit calico toile fit comments with annotated photos of the armhole, sleeve, rise and back Tap the image to see it full size
Made-to-measure jumpsuit, first fit on a calico toile. The body was short and too wide overall, and the sleeve head was tight while there was excess across the back. The comments add length, take width out of the bust, waist and leg, and rebalance the sleeve and armhole so it moves properly.

Like what you see?

Whether you're developing your first pair of jeans, stuck in an endless cycle of fit samples or trying to work out why something that looked great in development isn't quite working in production, give me a shout. You don't need to know exactly what help you need. Tell me what's going on, what's driving you mad and where you're currently stuck, and we'll figure it out from there.

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