House rules

I price per project, because every project is different and it's impossible to give a price until I know what you're making. Book a free 20-minute call, tell me where you're at, and I'll put together a quote for your project.

Yes. I offer a free 20-minute intro call. Tell me what you're making and where you're stuck, and we'll work out whether I'm the right person to help. Book your call here.

Nope. I'm happy to take on any size of project, from a one-off fit review on a single style to tech packs, blocks and grading for a whole range.

Mostly remotely, so I can work with brands anywhere. I also attend fit sessions in person in and around London and Essex.

Yes. I work with factories worldwide. I'll write fit comments your factory can actually act on, and help you work out what to say so they realise you know your stuff.

To create a tech pack I usually need a couple of weeks.

I can usually review a garment the same day it arrives and deliver fit comments within 1–2 days. The overall timing of a fit review depends on your critical path and my workload at the time, so let me know your deadlines when we first talk.

Yes. I turn your ideas into clear technical information your factory can actually work from: technical flats, construction details, size spec and grading. And I'll make sure you understand what's in there too. Here's what goes in a denim tech pack.

I love working with people like you. Most denim brand founders don't come from a technical background. I'll guide you through fabric, construction and the decisions needed to make your jeans manufacturable, then create the tech pack, size spec and grading, so you can approach factories with confidence.

Yes, that's my favourite kind of technical headache. I review your samples, run fit sessions and write clear fit comments that tell the factory exactly what to change. I also like figuring out why something has gone wrong, so the same issue doesn't come back next season. Start with how to fix the waist gap on your jeans.

Different denims and different wash processes behave differently. Shrinkage, stretch, recovery and finishing can all change how the finished jeans fit, so the same pattern doesn't automatically mean the same fit. I can help you find out what's happening to the actual product before you change the pattern.

Yes. I create detailed size specs built from your own block or from scratch, and plan grading from the start. Grading is only finalised once your sample size fit is signed off, so you're not locking in problems across the size range. More on grading and your size range.

If every new style feels like starting from scratch, or your fit isn't consistent across your range, probably. A block is your brand's tested foundation pattern, so you're not rediscovering how your customer is shaped every season. Read what a jeans block is and whether you need one.

Yes. If the same sizes, washes or fit complaints keep coming back, your customers are running a very expensive wearer trial for you. I look at your returns, sales by size and customer feedback to work out whether it's a fit, grading or quality problem, then fix it. Here's what your returns are telling you.

Denim is my specialist subject, but I cover most of womenswear, including soft wovens and jersey. There are some areas I don't cover: technical tailoring, swimwear, lingerie, knitwear and technical activewear. I have a huge network of contacts, so if your range is, say, denim and knit, I can bring in a specialist to collaborate.

Tech packs, fit, grading and quality control. We make sure what's in your head becomes a garment that fits, can be made consistently and doesn't come back as a return. I wrote it all down in what does a garment technologist do.